While trying to cope up with crazy
schedules of a high profile corporate job, the wanderer inside me knew that I
wasn’t best suited for it. I was looking for something else. I was looking for
answers. And I knew the only way I could find them is by unravelling the
adventurer in me. On the hint of an impulse, I decided to take an unplanned
trip to the Yoga Capital of India- Rishikesh. Nestled in the foothills of the
Himalayas, Rishikesh offers a perfect blend of adventure, breath-taking natural
beauty and spiritual awakening.
Jolly Grant Airport at Dehradun
is the nearest airport to Rishikesh. The Airport was one of the smallest ones I
have been to but also one of the most beautiful one. It was a surprisingly cool
afternoon in the month of June. In
India, June is a transit month between summers and monsoons. The sky was filled
with dark clouds; the air was moist and chilly. The onset of the first monsoon
winds came as a welcome relief to mother earth. “This is going to be a great
trip” I thought.
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| Sunset from the Ghats |
“In Rishikesh, use public transport as far as
possible” warned my father before I took off for the airport. Northern parts of
India are generally notorious for its crimes against women. Cases of rape, and
other heinous crimes against women are common. This required me to be on a high
alert all the time. On landing, I immediately started my search for the nearest
public bus station to Lakshman Jhula Road, the place where Anand Dham Aashram
was located. Aashrams are essentially residential quarters of spiritual masters
which were also open for travellers and devotees to provide for food and
shelter.
When I came outside the airport
gate I could not see a bus station anywhere nearby. “There are no public buses
that run from Dehrdun Airport to Rishikesh, you can take a private taxi from
there” pointed out the security officer at the airport gate. On my left, I
could see a fleet of private taxis with all male drivers, eyeing every passenger
as though searching for their next target. I had all sorts of imaginations
running in my head. I knew I had no choice. I gulped some water, took a deep
breath and walked towards the ticket window.
My diver, Manoj was a thin man in
his late thirties with a significantly large moustache. I had insisted for an
old and experienced driver. Probably he was the eldest they had. I took a
picture of the number plate and car on my phone camera, just in case. Manoj did
not seem to like the idea of me taking a picture of his car. He protested. I
Ignored and took the picture anyway. It was an hour drive to Lakshman Jhula
Road.
My phone battery was at 40%.
“Should be enough” I thought, till we reached the Aashram. I was hoping it survives
since I had to make sure Manoj was taking the correct route. Around 15 minutes
through, we were going on the right route. I was relieved. Just when I thought
of dismissing all thoughts of suspicion, the car changed the route to the left
instead of right. My heart was in my mouth. “The road to the Aashram is towards
the right” I said. No reply. Trying hard to keep my nerve, I asked again. He
pointed out to a petrol pump on the edge of the road. “Sigh” I leaned back and
stopped panicking, but still alert. While he was filling up the petrol tank I
was studying the route on Google Maps to check if there were any back roads or
jungle ways. The shortest route was a fairly straight highway. I was hoping he
takes that. This was a decision which
had pushed me to the edge.
Soon we found ourselves 25
minutes through the drive, steering through beautiful valleys and plains, on the
Rishikesh - Dehradun Highway. Breaking the silence, he asked me if I needed to
pick up something to eat or some water. I politely dismissed his question, now
a little relaxed.
We soon found ourselves stuck in
traffic, hinting at the start of civilisation. “It’s Yatra time and hence all
this traffic” said Manoj explaining why the area was so crowded. The months of
May and June are considered to be holy among pilgrims across India as this is
the time when the gates of Amarnath Temple open. All “Yatris” or pilgrims generally
flock this region during these months to get the first glimpse of “amaranth ji”
the shiv linga made of ice. In order to make it to Amarnath, Rishikesh is
generally their base camp. The traffic prolonged the journey by another 30
minutes according to Google Maps.
As we went farther along the way,
Manoj and I became friends. We spoke about everything from tourism in Rishikesh
to the people of Uttarakhand and Garhwali culture. He spoke about his journey from
being a flood victim to taking up a job in a taxi company. He even spoke about
his dream of starting his own private taxi business. I told him about my
connections back in Mumbai and how I could help. He was delighted. He offered
me to visit his home and said he and his family- his wife and 2 daughters would
be happy to host me for tea. I found it rather ironic, that the same man, who I
had pictured as a rapist just half an hour ago, was actually a decent man of
character, who is trying to make ends meet to support his family and pursue his
dreams.
As we reached the Ashram, I took
down Manoj’s number and promised to call his services in case I needed a taxi.
He also gave me his address and said I could reach out to him anytime during my
stay in Rishikesh. I gave him a tip of 100 bucks. He smiled and drove away.
“Can I see Ram Baba?” I asked the
thin teenage boy guarding the main temple of the Aashram. He took me to Ram
Baba, a petite long bearded man nearing his eighties robed in his saffron dhoti
and kurta. He gave me a warm welcoming smile, as though I did not need to give
an introduction. His deep brown eyes widened as he looked at me. “Have you come
alone all the way from Mumbai?” he asked while chanting on his rosary beeds.
“Yes” I said. Giving an expression mixed with surprise and confusion, he guided
me to my room. “Lunch is ready, do come out once you have rested” He said while
closing the door behind me.
The Aashram was a simple place,
reflecting the sheer simple living of the spiritual masters. It consisted of residential
quarters of the Gurus, a kitchen and food area, a garden, a temple, a yoga
hall, and a separate building having rooms for travellers and devotees for
their stay in the Aashram. Behind the temple, there was a cowshed where the
cows and their calves were fed and taken care of.
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| A still from "Anand Dham Aashram" at Lakshman Jhula Road. |
The Ashram family was blissfully
ignorant of urbanisation or westernisation in India. They never seemed to have
taken the airplane or heard about the metros, restraunts, touch screen mobile
phone or malls. It was overwhelming to comprehend a life that was so different
and simple. They cooked food with simple utensils did all the accounting on pen
and paper.
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| Lakshman Jhula Bridge- Rishikesh |
Soon after breakfast the next
morning, I decided to explore Rishikesh on foot, which was, of course, a bad
idea. Since the famous Lakshman Jhula was close by to the Ashram I set off to
explore the iconic bridge. It was flocked with tourists taking selfies, cattle
and motorcycles. What was a rather unusual experience that when I was there I
got stuck in a first of its kind Human traffic Jam. Since it was “Yatra time”
the bridge was more crowded than usual. It actually took 2.5 hours for me to
only walk through the bridge, which would otherwise take me not more than 10
minutes to cross on foot! It took a whole fleet of traffic policemen to clear
the human traffic. This was the last
thing I expected!
After a sumptuous lunch at the
Little Buddha café and a rejuvenating head massage at a local ayurvedic centre,
I headed off to Parmarth Nikean Asshram to witness the beautiful Ganga Aarti.
The environ created by the Aarti left me infused with energy, much of what I
needed for my adventure the following day.
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| Ganga Aarti at Triveni Ghat |
The next morning, I went to Shivpuri,
near Rishikesh for an adventure with the white water rapids. Rishikesh is one
of the most popular sites for white water rafting around the world. And it is
true to every word. A host of adventure companies offer this activity in the
mighty river with varied difficulty levels depending upon ones appetite for
adventure.
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| Rafting in the white water |
After experiencing simple Aashram
Life, a human traffic jam, a rejuvenating massage and a satiating river
adventure, it was time to explore the natural beauty of the Uttarakhand region.
So, I decided to call Manoj and asked if he can take me to some interesting
places around Rishikesh.
We started off by going to a
famous Shiva Temple called Neelkanth Mahadev literally meaning “the one with a
blue throat”. Legend has it that this was the place Lord Shiva had come to
meditate after inhaling the fatal poison of halahal which gave him a blue
throat and he came to be known as the “Neelkanth”. Outside I temple, I noticed
some local shopkeepers with a cart full of round berry like fruits and people
crowding around them. Curiosity took me to observe what was going on. What I
saw took me by surprise. The fruits that were in the cart were no ordinary
fruits. They were the “Rudraksh fal”. On finding out from the shop keeper he
told me “You chose a fruit from this basket and we will peel it for you. The
seed of the fruit which lies beneath its outer skin is actually the rudraksh
seed which has a great significance in Hindu mythology.” “It is said that the trees
on which these fruits are borne grew out of the teardrop of Lord Shiva. These
fruits are rare and are only found around this region. The seed can be of varied
faces or divisions from 1 to 12, and each type of seed has a significance of
its own. The seed with one face is said to be a manifestation of Lord Shiva
himself.” He continued. I picked the Rudraksh with 4 faces, known to be lucky
for higher education and learning.
After offering prayers at the
Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, we headed off for Mussourie, a tiny hill station to
the north of Rishikesh. En route Mussourie, we visited a different kind of
Shiva Temple. Manoj told me that this was the only Shiva temple in India where
it was prohibited to make any monetary donations by devotees. This temple was
not a public property unlike most other temples in India; this was a private
temple belonging to a local Garhwal Brahmin family. I found this interesting and
decided to pay a visit. The vibrations and peace of the temple was nerve
chilling. Not many people knew about this temple. “Benefits of making a local
connection” I thought to myself.
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| Sahastradhara falls, Enroute Mussourie |
It was around early evening by
the time we reached Mussourie. While I was enjoying the breathtaking view of
the hills from a local café, Manoj seemed to be rather unsettled. “What
happened, Manoj?” I asked. “Madam, It will take us atleast 3.5 hours to get
back to Rishikesh” before I could ask him what was unsettling about that, he
continued “we need to get back before 8.00.p.m.”“We can leave by around 6.00
p.m. Manoj, the view from here is beautiful. I would like to stay for another
half and hour and then we can leave.” Manoj reluctantly agreed. It was only two
hours later that I realised, what was so unsettling about the 8.00 p.m.
deadline.
While going from Dehradun to
Rishikesh there is a road which is surrounded on both sides by thick forest.
The forest is home to fierce, violent, wild elephants. Every evening after
sunset, the elephants generally come on to the road and cause damage to any
passing vehicle or human. Cases of vehicles smashed by the elephants was common
and were reported by local media everyday. Due to this, the local people avoid
taking this road after sunset. For people who have to travel after 8 p.m., the
local police has deployed a special force to take the cars through the road to
the end. For this, cars are only allowed to go in groups of about say 20- 25
cars at a time, led by a local police van. A single vehicle or two wheelers are
not allowed through this road after 8.00 p.m. One can also not walk through
this road on foot after sunset. The local policing is strict and the entire
area is highly regulated. It was about 8:30 p.m. and were waiting with another
group of 15 cars along with us. There were no street lights on the road. It was
dark. We could hear a loud noise. Possibly a trumpet.
I was scared, and excited. The
police van ahead of us signalled us to wait. They could not risk the cars going
through. After about 30 minutes, the guard signalled green. We were 20 cars by
now. All took off together, at the same speed. While we were halfway through
the road we heard a loud “Thud”. “It is probably a tree bark thrown by an
elephant” said Manoj. A part of me was hoping to see the wild beast in action
while the other half wanted to get to the end of the road safely. “This trip
turned to be more of an adventure than I had expected” I thought as we left the
mysterious jungle road behind us and entered the town of Rishikesh.
My return flight back to Mumbai
was at 2.00 p.m. the following day. Manoj was waiting outside the Aashram Gate
at 12.00 p.m. sharp, as directed. I bid adieu to everyone at the Aashram, and
donated a small amount towards maintenance of the cows as a gesture of
appreciation for hosting me in this wonderful place. The small donation brought
immense happiness to them. “It was great having you here, do visit us again”
said Ram Baba.
On reaching the airport I cleared
Manoj’s dues and walked towards the main gate. Before I went too far I heard Manoj
call “Madamji one minute”. I turned around and saw him holding out a small box.
“My wife had made this today, she has sent this for you.” The box contained ‘kachoris’
a local snack. I was overwhelmed by his gesture. “Thank you Manoj, this means a
lot”